Currently in CA and Other Stuff

Noticed that my last post was July 3rd. That's pretty despicable blog upkeep. But when the waves have been looking like this: 

and I've a ton of research to do, all that matters is that I post at all, and that when I post I provide pertinent information. For example, on the day pictured I surfed for 5 hours. The buoys were reading 8.2 feet at 10 seconds (with a forecast to drop throughout the day). Picked up the star team rider in Billy Burg at 6am and banched out to Rockaway. We surfed for five hours. A doctor in residence from Hawaii was tearing it apart. Fastest surfing I've seen on the East Coast barring the star team rider. Had to cancel lessons because it was too big for beginners. Other surf instructors from the Rockaway schools had also cancelled theirs. They run a pretty nice outfit down there. I would never do it that way myself, nor do I plan to, since I prefer surgical strikes to all day camp outs because I believe that to be good at surfing you must embed it into your daily life (thus requiring said strikes). A daily surf mission is not vacation. Well it is. But one can vacation and work as well. Like now, I'm writing from a cabin in Northern California, having swam in a lake all day, but I still find time to get work done. Work and play must be in balance. Both ought to be both challenging and fun. Take the doctor I spoke of as another example. He arrived to the beach at 6am, blew the tops off of chest high lips for 3 hours until 9am, when he went in to check his pager (haha doctors still have pagers). He then came back out for 5 more waves or so, then he drove off to the Bronx to work in a hospital for the rest of the day. And that's how it's done folks. Daily surfs are possible. Or at least tri-weekly. Seven days of surfing in a row is vacation. 

Other notes:

1. Taught two awesome body surfing lessons. I thoroughly enjoy teaching people how to ride waves without boards. 

2. I'll be back in NY on August 9th, not 8th. I'll start answering email inquiries and scheduling lessons tomorrow. 

3. Am planning my own camp/surf school of sorts, which has more of a seminar quality—surfing history, board design, structure of competitive surfing—for both kids and adults. 

4. Also offer tutoring in Ancient Greek. That's random, I know, but hey, if you're interested, I teach that too. 

Board Walking and Montauk

Photo: Anya Chibis.

Here's proof that you don't need much a wave to go surfing. This photo was taken last Thursday at Long Beach.

Also wanted to say again that if you are going to be out in Montauk or the Hamptons this summer do not hesitate to email me for a private lesson. I might even go up there of my own free will because the waves are fun and the city is too hot, and will therefore already be available to help you out whether it you are just beginning or are an intermediate working on positioning, turning, and reading lineups. Oh yeah and I'll be out of town in California from July 25-August 8. I am going to attempt to head out east a few times in the last few weeks of August too. Shoot a line!

Because You Love To Read

Posting for the sake of posting. The intense heat of the New York summer has firmly taken root. Today is my first day of rest in about 6 or 7. I just spent the last 3 waking up before 6am (as early as 3:30am in one case). My sister-in-law and amazing photographer, Anya Chibis, has been in town for the past four days and we've done a total of three photo shoots. I have styled for and mugged in two previous photo shoots with Anya, so this was our third stab at it. The purpose is mostly artistic—to collaborate on something that both of us can use—but also professional—she to show that she keeps putting out fresh work in the lifestyle/fashion photography arena—and I for my blogs, surf lessons, and any potential work of various sorts in the fashion industry (styling, consulting, designing, and what the heck, even muggin' if the price is right). Some of the highlights and b-sides will be aired here and on my other blog: http://burningfromtheinside.tumblr.com. We did a little surf stretching sequence, so that I can share with all of those beginning seekers of surf stoke how to properly warm up and prepare for a life dedicated to wave sliding. In that vein, I am still around for lessons and can teach out east if desired or required. The re-branding of the surf school and possible T-shirt project is still on the board and being sketched out. If anyone wants to take a stab at helping me create a new blog/website in exchange for lessons please do not hesitate to send a message.

International Surfing Day

Hey all. Happy International Surfing Day!!!!! A few updates: First of all, here is a great example of how to surf the white waters with style. You can see how relaxed and calm she looks cruising in on this little wave. Riding the white water with grace is about the third step in anyone's surfing path (the first being comfortable in the ocean generally, especially without a board; the second being able to paddle efficiently). All of these skills, moreover, are constant works in progress.

Second, I was mentioned in NY Magazine's Summer Issue: http://nymag.com/guides/summer/2012/water-attractions/ Go check it out or pick up a copy in news stands. Very stoked that the nice guys over at Pilgrim Surf recommended me for this. And for those that are directed here, yes, again, I will give bodysurfing lessons. It is a crucial skill. I've been doing it my whole life and feel that it really helps one understand wave mechanics and how waves and bodies interact with one another.

Third, I am working on rebranding the lesson business. I am going to offer comprehensive packages and also have some plans for some really cool tees, hats, and sweatshirts in the works. I have long had the desire to also have a fashion line, but I am going to start small and build the brand with my surf school. I do have a new name in mind, but I'm going to keep it under wraps until I develop the logo and get going on a new website. Definitely stay tuned. I am really excited about it and think it's going to be the perfect marriage of all of my passions: surfing, philosophy, and fashion.

Last, always thanks for reading and for inquiring. Surfing is such an immense gift and such a great way for one to increase one's joy by learning to see in new ways. I remain dedicated to helping others develop this vision and to learning how to make room in their lives for wave riding.

Fiji Pro

Hey all, not sure if you've been watching, but there's a live professional surfing contest happening in Fiji today/tomorrow (it's tomorrow there -- they're 16 or 17 hours ahead of us here in NYC). Yesterday they only ran two heats -- the last two heats of Round 2 -- and then left the big stuff to the gnarly free surf big wave pros who wanted it. There were a handful of the top 34 surfers in the world out there as well. They're on today at the back-up spot, Restaurants, which is a pretty much a long perfect barreling left. Should be great to watch. There are a lot of pundits on Twitter that claim otherwise, and their tweets are worth reading, if only for entertainment's sake. I have found myself spitting my water all over my desk from laughter at what some of these guys and gals are writing: @Rottmouth, @werdson, @gravys, @dumbthchronicles -- and just find some of the people they communicate with to see the running drivel. Seriously funny. Here's the link to the event: Fiji Pro.

Body Surfing

Was just interviewed re: body surfing lessons by NY Magazine. Not sure if I'm going to make the article, but I want to let everyone know that I have begun to incorporate bodysurfing into my overall surf lesson schema. I will even go as far as to give 100% body surfing lessons for those so inclined. This will not be the case for regular surfing lessons, we will move to the board after you have swam into a few waves. Will keep updating should the article run.

First Rule of Surfing

First Rule of Surfing

http://dumbthchronicles.com/2011/07/rule-1/