Friday, April 20, 2012
A photo my friend Steve took and put on his instagram. It spoke to me so much I commented that I wanted to “reblog” it, so Steve sent it to me in an email attachment. This is so real to surfing and so indicative of the type of lifestyle and culture that the masses barely even think of when surfing comes to mind. I grew up in a heavily localized area—definitely more localized than Rincon. Watched guys put sugar in people’s gas tanks, pop tires, start fights, run guys out of the water, throw sticks at people, and just general malingering and hate-mongering. I don’t find it as nasty on the East Coast so far. Dudes in Jersey are a little grumpy, but nothing matches California localism. What makes CA localism that much nastier is that “Team Kook” can apply to the locals themselves. Some guys/gals who don’t even surf well act all hard. In Hawaii (or Australia for that matter) it is clear who the top dogs are because they rip and have a firmly defined spot in the lineup and the pecking order and so you stay away from them and pick off inside waves they aren’t even looking at. Kooks aren’t allowed to regulate, but somehow the laws of bro-dom make it possible in California. The real kooks aren’t beginning surfers. The real kooks are the guys/gals with stink ass style who get all nasty at people who are just trying to have a good time; who overcompensate with their poor surfing skills with crappy attitudes and negativity. This is why I’m never a local anymore. I surf a ton of places and just catch the waves no one even sees, which (hint hint) are usually the best waves anyhow.