I'm on the last day of my Socal sojourn and just posting up at my pal Cori's house. It's nearly flat today and freezing cold with brutal offshore winds. Yesterday was the best day of the trip. Got in two solid surfs—the first solo and the second with pals. The boards that my friends have lent me to ride have been amazing. The above 5'4" Takayama holds extremely well for roundhouses. I think it has to do with those outer quad fins. It holds in positions where my Channel Islands fish slides out. The 5'8" single fin has the widest hips I've ever seen on a board and goes incredibly well in punchy surf. It's a high performance single fin—you can slide your foot back over the tail and it responds rapidly to desired changes in direction. Beyond this, yes, it has been an extremely cold week in San Diego. My hooded 4/3 sans booties and gloves has been enough, and the 57 degree water helps ease the frostbitten air. Beyond that, it's been so lovely to realize what a great group of people I have in my life down here. Salt of the earth shredders with big hearts and comfortable couches. Last night some old competitive cronies and I cooked up a plan for an event that's going to blow all previous surf events out of the water. And you know what? I think we're seriously serious about making it happen. I'm flying back to New York early tomorrow morning. Then it's off to Zürich on Wednesday evening.
My surfing peoples: a new friend of mine, Michael McWilliams, is starting a brand called Digz Apparel. Digz has a solid story and projected aesthetic. It's founded on the memory of Mike's brother who died of traumatic brain injuries, and on the notion that clothing should be built to last. Below is the video and to help them out go their kickstarter: HERE. Mike and the boys are offering a variety of awesome kick backs for your kickstart contribution.
People! 2013 is looking up! I missed those amazing days in New Jersey (Dec 21 and 27). If you got it, good on you! The pics are delicious. Also, I've cancelled the camps in Costa Rica this winter completely. So I will NOT be in Costa Rica January 9-25. I've changed my trip and am going to San Diego to surf my brains out instead and then am flying all the way back across the other pond to Europe. I'll be too busy this coming spring semester to offer lessons, but stuff will fire up in full force again in May. With possibly some Costa Rica stuff in July. I will update all plans here. May your 2013 be awesome and filled with good waves and good people!
I teach private surf lessons year round. I am based out of Long Beach and Brooklyn. I specialize in private one-on-one beginner lessons and on intermediate surf coaching. My goal is to provide beginners and intermediates with all of the crucial skills needed to pursue surfing as a life-long activity. If you are looking for a place to just say that you stood up on a board, this is not the place. I give a comprehensive overview of ocean knowledge, lineup etiquette, and paddling techniques. I am realistic about the time it takes to become a proficient surfer and try my hardest to provide you with the essential information you need to start making your way. My lessons are more expensive than the average outfit, but I truly believe that one lesson from me is worth at least three with other schools, and even then you still may not learn anything applicable from them, as they are more focused on the tourist season and getting people to just have had the feeling of "riding on a wave". I teach 7 days a week. To schedule a lesson simply email me at firstname.lastname@example.org. All lessons are subject to rescheduling based up on weather and wave conditions. -Dion