Monday, January 14, 2013

San Diego Keeps It Real

5'4" Takayama Quad Fish. 

5'8 Mike Walter Single Fin. 

Typical surf trip scenario.
I'm on the last day of my Socal sojourn and just posting up at my pal Cori's house. It's nearly flat today and freezing cold with brutal offshore winds. Yesterday was the best day of the trip. Got in two solid surfs—the first solo and the second with pals. The boards that my friends have lent me to ride have been amazing. The above 5'4" Takayama holds extremely well for roundhouses. I think it has to do with those outer quad fins. It holds in positions where my Channel Islands fish slides out. The 5'8" single fin has the widest hips I've ever seen on a board and goes incredibly well in punchy surf. It's a high performance single fin—you can slide your foot back over the tail and it responds rapidly to desired changes in direction. Beyond this, yes, it has been an extremely cold week in San Diego. My hooded 4/3 sans booties and gloves has been enough, and the 57 degree water helps ease the frostbitten air. Beyond that, it's been so lovely to realize what a great group of people I have in my life down here. Salt of the earth shredders with big hearts and comfortable couches. Last night some old competitive cronies and I cooked up a plan for an event that's going to blow all previous surf events out of the water. And you know what? I think we're seriously serious about making it happen.  I'm flying back to New York early tomorrow morning. Then it's off to Zürich on Wednesday evening.

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