Hooked on watching the surf comp in SF. I have three fantasy surf guys in Round Three already - Slater, Medina, and Davo. Now I need Wright to beat Dean Brady; Julian Wilson over Tommy Whits (feeling good about this one); Dane over Durbo (not feeling good about this one); Kerr over Logie (hard to say); and Pupo over Ottz (not feeling good about this one). Owen’s got it, so I’m now four for four, and need the remaining guys to make it and not match up against one another in Round 3. Feeling good for Davo or Slates to take the comp. Davo was a last minute pick, but when I looked at his fantasy surf profile and thought of his personality and his surfing, I realized he has SF all over him. Punk rock power and gritty determination. Is there a better combination? Besides that no one is landing their airs or end section floaters, as expected of course. For this reason I have been looking forward to seeing whether or not this would be the case because I had so much trouble all those ten years surfing there to pull off end section maneuvers. When I did, however, it always felt sweet as candy and also boosted confidence like a spike in blood sugar. My rotator cuffs are probably worse for the wear after those same ten years, as anyone watching the event can see - the water moves at a minimum of 15 knots on a good day. Where would I be surfing this day? Probably would’ve given VFs or Sloat a go around 10am when the waves were good, and if I had another sesh in me I’d be down in Lindamar right now surfing sideshore hightide reforms. Tomorrow morning has Fort Point and heckling written all over it.
Listening to Owen’s interview right now: “Hardest heat I’ve ever surfed. I was duckdiving the whole time.” Damn straight.
The New York event definitely had better waves and is making me feel pretty good about the city I have chosen to complete my PhD in.
As per Dusty Payne’s “sighting”: sharks don’t bite in SF. If you see one he has food in his belly. I’ve seen three there and it is scary, but for whatever reason there is just no history of attacks at OB. Go north thirty minutes and it’s a different story. Or go south thirty minutes and you’re more likely to be “investigated.”
Back to the New York front of things: three days of sick waves forecasted Wednesday-Friday. I’m going try to get two out of the three days in. Stoked to pick up my fish from ding repair at Maritime Surf and have half a mind to throw down on a used Takayama 6’6” egg so I can give the fish a break when I teach lessons.